The rooftop deck at CayeReef on Caye Caulker. I sat up there this morning, waiting for the sun to rise and drinking a truly horrible cup of coffee. (The horrible is what happens when you try to make coffee in the dark, in a strange kitchen, while trying not to wake up the sleeping kid three feet away, no reflection on the island or hotel.)


My camera ran out of battery charge almost immediately, but it has a couple pictures of the undersides of birds on it. I went up there before dawn and sat in the dark as it shifted to half light, thinking I’d see a lovely sunrise. Instead I saw these incredibly spooky silhouettes of pterodactyls overhead. Suzanne tells me they were frigate birds, but I was pretty sure I’d entered Jurassic Park. I cowardly retreated back to my room.